Seattle Magazine, February 2005
 
Perfect Pairing: Is there anything better than brisk white wine with oysters?
 
By Anne Nisbet, Contributing Writer
 
An iced plate adorned with perfectly shucked oysters is a beautiful thing. When accompanied by the perfect glass of wine, it can make one wax poetic. (As Hemingway wrote in A Moveable Feast, the combination so cheered him, he "began to be happy and make plans.") But what is that perfect glass of wine? Jon Rowley, local seafood consultant, oyster guru and organizer of the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition for the last 10 years, describes it as "brisk and clean finishing." He notes that oysters are eaten in succession, so the wine shouldn’t linger, but "cleanse the palate, washing it clean" in preparation for the next oyster.

The cool-weather months of February, March and April are prime time for oyster-eating, he says. The bivalves are at their peak, plump, sweet and perky.

When instructing judges at the oyster wine competition, Rowley encourages them to seek the "bliss factor," sampling an oyster first, then following with a sip of wine. "Every once in a while you get a ’bingo!" he says.

For oyster and wine fanatics (or novices), there’s no better opportunity to experience the bliss factor than at the Oyster Olympics held the last Tuesday in March each year at Anthony’s Shilshole (ticket information at 206.297.7002) where dozens of oyster purveyors and wineries are on hand to shuck and pour their finest.

FEBRUARY’S WINE PICKS
You can experiment at home with wines that pair well with oysters. Try these suggestions from oyster wine aficionados around town.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2003 Pinot Gris
Recommended by: Brian Huse, manager, Flying Fish. Huse prefers to partner oysters with wines that have "not too much fruit, no oak or risidual sugar and stainless steel fermentation." This Pinot Gris is "straightforward, with no oak, crisp and clean."

Alternative: Distefano 2003 Sauvignon Blanc ($10)

Delille Cellars 2003 Chaleur Estate Blanc ($30) Recommended by : Erik Liedholm, wine director, Seastar Restaurant and Raw Bar. Liedholm pairs the Chaleur Estate Blanc with Kumamoto oysters, noting that the creamy, rich quality of the Kumamoto is similar to the wine’s texture.

Alternative: Mountain Dome NV Brut ($15)

Fidelitas 2003 Semillon ($15) Recommended by: Tim O’Brien, wine director, Salty’s on Alki. O’Brien likes Semillon with Kumamotos as both are "a little fuller in the mouth." With the subtle, clean flavor of Olympia oysters, "sparkling is a favorite for the sheerness of flavors."

Alternative: Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Blanc de Blancs ($11)

Shooting Star 2003 Aligoté ($14) Recommended by: Greg Hinton, general manager, Elliott’s Oyster House. "It has a minerally, steely quality with great acidity and lots of lemon and hints of orange zest."

Alternative: Snoqualmie Vineyards 2003 Sauvignon Blanc ($7)

Barnard Griffin 2003 Fume Blanc ($9) Recommended by Lane Hoss, vice president marketing, Anthony’s Restaurants. "Crisp, high in acid and clean finishing, with no oak and a lemony quality that complements oysters."

Alternative: Lone Canary 2003 Sauvignon Blanc ($11)